Marianne Fassler presented one of the best amd memorable collections seen at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Joburg 2017, yes I saw all of them except David Tlale’s show. I missed David Tlale’s show because the shows were running late yet again this season – what is news there, 1 hour late, 3 hours late, late, late, late – absolutely nothing new. I stood no chance of rushing from Mall of Africa in Midrand to Bedfordview to catch David Tlale’s show within a space of 30minutes, what a pity. The other show that I missed by choice was the Mall of Africa retailers’ collections.
I noted that the collection was much younger and commercial for the Fassler woman one has come to expect – the monochrome black and white adidas sneakers used for the show were telling.
Back to Marianne Fassler. I absolutely enjoyed this collection it was beautifully presented, the show opened with a minute static mime performance by Joburg’s cool girl Manthe Ribane in an acid orange structural cut get-up. Thereafter, the Marianne Fassler gates of endless texture, colour and bounce were flung open. There were custom designed and fiercely clashing prints, bejeweled chicken claws that reminded me of the quirky design and art style of SELETTI wears TOILETPAPER, an infusion of the all-seeing eye in the garments, beautiful appliqued animal motifs in primary colours that evoked kindergarten days gone-by. There were birds feather details and every accent, motif, applique, embroidery was beautifully infused in the garments. As the model walked past you really had to lean in a little bit for a better close up.
Hence, I enjoy photographing every look whilst I am watching a show because if I miss something through the naked eye, I can always zoom in on the image via the camera for a better inspection. So If I say the seams were puckered, there were pins holding the garments together, untrimmed threads, or make a remark about suspect garment construction. That means that there is a photo to back it up.
Could Fassler slowly be distancing herself from the house and letting the younger designers who work under her drive the creative direction of the house?
Back to Marianne Fassler. This season one thing was amiss, at the beginning of the show, I noted that the collection was much younger and commercial for the Fassler woman one has come to expect – the monochrome black and white adidas sneakers used for the show were telling. With about 6 -7 Fassler formal gowns and the traditional show-stopping gown. I finally placed my finger on it, this season there was a conspicuous lack of leopard print not even used as an accent. If it was used as an accent I did not see it on it must have been used as a lining for the garments. The only leopard print I spotted was on a pair of wedge sandals the models paired with the formal gowns. Instead of the ever present use of leopard print, there was no shortage of Ghana Must Go prints and Mmaasai Shuka.
One thing is for sure Marianne Fassler has built a strong brand together with the aid of a supportive structure
Could Fassler slowly be distancing herself from the house and letting the younger designers who work under her drive the creative direction of the house? When I was backstage before the show began I noticed that there was an army of team Fassler floating around, independent stylists commissioned to style the collection, the fashion house’s junior designers and so forth. At the end of the show, the backstage army was joined by the ululating and jubilating mama’s who work at Marianne Fassler’s studio – the women who do the actual garment construction. A tradition that always makes me smile upon witnessing. It is wonderful for everyone who works on a collection or any project for that matter to come see the final product on the runway in order to fully understand the value chain. One thing is for sure Marianne Fassler has built a strong brand together with the aid of a supportive structure (employees, family – her husband and daughter were also present) and friendship (she is besties with the Motsepes). I like this new direction, I wonder if I am able to afford the clothes as I there are a lot of looks I would love to own from this collection.